Activewear sampling is the staged process of turning a design or tech pack into a physical garment you can fit, test, and approve before committing to bulk. A program can include development, fit, size-set and pre-production samples; the exact number of rounds depends on the product and the changes still open. A standard factory sample round is usually planned at roughly 7–10 working days when the specification and available materials are confirmed. This guide covers the Full Custom route, which starts from 200 pieces per color and style. A standard bulk run is normally planned around 30–45 days only after the order-specific production-release package and capacity slot are confirmed. Ready-style orders follow a separate Excel selection process from 50 pieces per style.
Before sampling, use the activewear tech pack checklist to make sure the drawing, BOM, measurements, branding, testing and revision number describe the same approved version.
For base-size POMs, grade rules, movement checks and size-set approval, use the activewear size grading and fit approval checklist.
When a physical sample arrives, use the activewear sample approval checklist to verify its identity, measurements, fit, materials, seams, branding and required evidence, then issue a clear approve, revise-and-resample or reject decision.
The Sample Types You’ll Move Through
Sampling is not a single event. It is a sequence, and each sample answers a different question.
Proto / development sample. This is the first physical interpretation of your design or tech pack. For OEM work, the factory builds it from your construction drawings and specifications; for ODM, it starts from a base style in the in-house pattern and fabric library. The proto confirms that the construction, panel layout, and overall concept are buildable. It is rarely in final fabric or final colour — its job is to validate the idea.
Fit sample. Once the concept is approved, the fit sample focuses on measurements, drape, and how the garment performs on the body. This is the most iterative stage in activewear, where stretch recovery, gusset placement, waistband tension, and range of motion all get checked. Fit samples are often where you’ll request changes and trigger re-sampling.
Pre-production (PP) sample. This is the final sign-off sample, made in bulk fabric, bulk trims, correct labelling, and the exact construction that will run in production. Approving the PP sample is your green light. Nothing should change after this point.
Some programmes add a size set (samples graded across your full size run) and a TOP / shipment sample pulled from the actual production line as a final check.
What Sample Fees Typically Cover
Sample fees in apparel are not arbitrary. They reflect real one-off work: pattern making, marker making, cutting a single garment by hand, specialised sewing, sourcing small quantities of fabric and trims (which carry no volume discount), and the technician time to interpret your spec.
The ranges below are indicative industry ranges, not company quotes — actual fees depend on complexity, fabric, and how custom the trims are.
| Sample type | What it covers | Indicative range (per style) |
|---|---|---|
| Proto / development | First-pattern, single garment in available fabric | US$40–120 |
| Fit sample | Revised pattern, fit corrections | US$40–100 per round |
| Pre-production (PP) | Bulk fabric, bulk trims, final labelling | US$60–150 |
| Custom fabric / trim development | Lab dips, knit-downs, custom elastic or silicone logos | Quoted case by case |
Two cost drivers dominate. First, fabric: a sample in a standard interlock costs far less to develop than one in a recycled seamless knit or a down-filled construction. Second, customisation: custom Santoni seamless programmes, laser-bonded seams, or bespoke trims carry development cost that off-the-shelf trims do not. Simpler styles drawn from the existing library sample faster and cheaper than ground-up technical pieces.
We offer sample-cost deduction and small-batch pilot runs for new brands, so the upfront sampling spend is recoverable rather than sunk.
The 7–10 Working Day Timeline
For a standard style with a confirmed tech pack (or approved ODM base) and available fabric, a single sample round runs 7–10 working days. That window breaks down roughly like this:
| Phase | What happens | Indicative time |
|---|---|---|
| Pattern & marker | First-pattern drafting from spec | 1–3 days |
| Cutting & sewing | Single-garment cut, specialised stitching | 2–4 days |
| Finishing & QC | Pressing, trim attachment, internal check | 1–2 days |
| Photos & dispatch | Measurement report, photos, courier | 1 day |
The 7–10 day figure assumes the fabric is in the library or in stock. Custom fabric extends the clock — lab dips, knit-downs, or a fully custom yarn add their own development window before the garment can even be cut. The same is true for custom trims like bespoke silicone logos or reflective transfers. If your timeline is tight, choosing from existing fabrics and stock trims is the single biggest lever you have.
To compress real time, we run 3D virtual sampling and video fittings alongside physical samples — you can review fit and proportion digitally before a courier crosses an ocean, cutting days off each feedback loop.
Re-Sampling After Fit Feedback
Some styles need more than one physical fit round, especially when the first sample reveals a measurement, material or construction change. After you receive a fit sample, send one controlled set of marked-up comments — for example, a sleeve adjustment, waistband correction or reshaped panel. A meaningful pattern or construction change normally requires a revised sample before approval, using the confirmed sample timing for that project.
A few things keep re-sampling efficient:
- Consolidate feedback. Send all changes for a sample in one batch rather than drip-feeding comments across multiple emails — each partial round still costs a full cycle.
- Use the measurement report. Compare the factory’s actual measurements against your spec before you fit on a body; many “fit issues” are simply spec gaps.
- Lean on virtual review first. Resolve proportion and silhouette questions in 3D before committing a physical re-sample.
The final number of rounds should be based on unresolved risk rather than a promise that every style follows the same sequence. Complex technical, support-led or seamless pieces can require additional validation. Re-sampling costs less than discovering an unapproved fit change after bulk cutting.
Moving From Sample Approval Into Bulk
Once you approve the PP sample, you cross from development into production. Two numbers matter here.
MOQ. Full custom manufacturing starts from 200 pieces per color and style. If you do not need custom fabric, color, fit, pattern or construction, the private ready-style Excel catalogue starts from 50 pieces per style. Sample costs and any deduction terms are confirmed with the quotation.
Bulk lead time. A standard Full Custom bulk run is normally planned around 30–45 days only after the order-specific production-release package and capacity slot are confirmed. The quotation or PO must define the exact start event, working-day convention and included scope. That planning window is not sample time, international transit time or an unconditional delivery promise. A buyer-agreed final acceptance plan can use AQL 2.5 where specified; the AQL 2.5 activewear inspection checklist explains the additional lot, defect, sampling and decision inputs. Third-party SGS / BV / Intertek inspection is allowed. Trade terms are flexible — FOB, CIF, or DDP — but each term and named place must be confirmed for the current order.
Use the activewear production timeline and critical-path guide to separate production release, ex-factory, carrier handover, destination delivery and launch dates before you accept a schedule.
A clean handoff from sampling to bulk depends on locking everything at PP: fabric, trims, labelling, and packaging all confirmed. The reason the PP sample is the final sign-off is precisely so that nothing has to be renegotiated once the bulk cut begins.
If you want to see fabric compositions and real style references before sampling, browse our active & yoga, seamless, and swimwear ranges — each shows the constructions and fabrics already in the library, which is the fastest route to a 7–10 day first sample.
Start Your Sample
The quickest way to a usable timeline and an indicative sample quote is to share your tech pack or reference images, target fabric and quantity. Start a Full Custom inquiry so Jerry can review the intended product, open specifications and sample scope before quoting.
